Tag: People

Climbing / Blog - 3 weeks ago

Peaches Preaches: The Dirtbag Conundrum

"You walk without a sense of purpose," a Berkeley bar manager once told James "Peaches" Lucas before firing him. A dedicated climber who spent 15 years living out of caves, tents, and then a Saturn station wagon to pursue the sport, Lucas stumbles th...

Climbing / Blog - 4 weeks ago

Unsent: It’s Not a Free Solo, It’s a Highball, DAD!

Unsent /un-sent/ 1. To have failed so badly on a route you had previously climbed that you negate your redpoint. 2. A humor column.It’s fine, see? He has spotters. Geeze! Photo: Andrew BurrOh. My. GOD. Stop worrying! You and mom are such babies. I’m...

Climbing / Blog - 1 month ago

The Last Lead: Aging Out of Climbing

Author Dick Dorworth, ~10 years ago, topping out the Mountaineer’s Route on the Elephant’s Perch in Idaho's Sawtooth Range for the last time. Photo by Dave HartIt had to happen. The signs leading up to the last lead had been clear and chronic for sev...

Climbing / Blog - 1 month ago

The Peanut Gallery: The #1 and #2 Problems With Van Life

Julie “Peanut” Ellison is the Editor at Large for Climbing. She often gets worked up about things she reads on the Internet and then falls asleep mumbling to herself about it. The Peanut Gallery is her monthly column.When you live in your van, the wo...

Climbing / Blog - 1 month ago

That One Time: Double Vision

Illustration: Sarahjane BernhiselThe old quip goes that an alpinist’s finest asset is a short memory. Without it, you’d never revisit the world of cold, wet, and scared. But I knew I would remember this climb, an icefall that spilled hundreds of feet...

Climbing / Blog - 1 month ago

Noon Patrol: The Wrong Way to Have Fun

Some climbers wake before dawn to climb at empty crags. Kevin Corrigan sleeps in and shows up when those people go home. Noon Patrol is his monthly column about how climbers should have more fun, be nicer, and take the sport less seriously. For Kevin...

Climbing / Blog - 1 month ago

Behind the Scenes of Alex Honnold's Freerider Free Solo

Honnold on his 2011 solo of Cosmic Debris (5.13b), Yosemite. Photo: Mikey Schaefer“So stoked. I just sent the proj!” Alex Honnold said in a voicemail from El Capitan on June 3. “Hiking down the East Ledges. Thanks for the support up here this season...

Climbing / Blog - 1 month ago

Peaches Preaches: Battling the Bubble

"You walk without a sense of purpose," a Berkeley bar manager once told James "Peaches" Lucas before firing him. A dedicated climber who spent 15 years living out of caves, tents, and then a Saturn station wagon to pursue the sport, Lucas stumbles th...

Climbing / Blog - 2 months ago

Grasping at Draws: Inside Out

Conrad Frausto climbs at Jailhouse Rock, California, where the author would be if he wasn’t deskbound. Photo: Andrew BurrBack in 2006, a mere six months after I reached the legal drinking age, and two days into my internship at a climbing magazine du...

Climbing / Blog - 2 months ago

Profile: Tara Kerzhner—A Study in Contrast

Photo: Tara Kerzhner“Knock-knock,” Tara Kerzhner said to me below The Eighth Day (5.13a), Rifle, Colorado’s endless, vertical, notoriously crimpy roadside testpiece. It was August 2013. Kerzhner, then 29, her husband, Greg, and I had spent most of th...

Climbing / Blog - 2 months ago

Sponsored: The History of Friends

One of the most iconic images from Yosemite during the 1970s is of Ray Jardine, dressed in white painter’s pants and an orange tee, with a row of Friends -- his invention -- placed behind him on Separate Reality. He’s perched on the lip of the 15-foo...